Marostica Famous for chess and cherries, Marostica is one of the most beautiful walled cities in Veneto. Perfect for a trip or as a stop on an itinerary in the Vicentino area.
Marostica is a charming walled city in the province of Vicenza. There are three good reasons to visit: the thrill of a unique spectacle, the charm of a fascinating medieval castle, and the irresistible goodness of the cherries. The spectacle, impossible to see elsewhere, is the chess game with living characters that is staged every two years to commemorate a real game played in the 15th century. Today, as in the past, the pieces are real people who move according to the commands of two knights in love with the same maiden (real characters in the Middle Ages, actors today); the chessboard is the elegant marble floor of one of the most beautiful squares in Italy. The Marostica chess game is one of the most famous and spectacular historical reenactments in Italy, unmissable for anyone who loves the splendor of noble courts. Hundreds of actors and extras participate in this grand event, portraying ladies and knights, heralds, jesters, and other typical characters from medieval sagas with seriousness and passion. Marostica Castle is the symbolic building of Marostica and includes two buildings connected by an 1800-meter-long wall. On the days of the match, it serves as both the backdrop and the number one witness of the lavish spectacle. When the match ends as scripted, the castle returns to being the main attraction of the city. The other top event in Marostica is the cherry festival, held in May. Outside Veneto, it cannot boast the same fame as the chess game, but within the region, it is equally loved and awaited. Marostica cherries were the first to obtain the IGP certification: one cherry leads to another, just as one visit to Marostica makes you want to return.
What to see in Marostica The attractions in Marostica are concentrated in the historic center and its immediate vicinity; the center is small and can be easily explored on foot. Half a day is enough to visit the village, but if you want to take it easy and perhaps add a walk outside the city, plan for more time.
Piazza degli Scacchi Via degli Scacchi, 36063 Marostica VI, Italy The official name is Piazza Castello, but for everyone, it is the Chess Square of Marostica. We are talking about the top attraction of the city, the famous square in the heart of the historic center where the event that made this town famous worldwide takes place. However, you don’t need to come on the occasion of the famous match to fall in love with this square: unique and charming, it is appreciated every day of the year. Built in the 14th century by the Scaligeri as a place for trade, the square is rectangular and bordered by splendid historical buildings of medieval and Venetian eras. On the south side is the suggestive Lower Castle complex, on the north side is the Palazzo del Doglione, and on the east and west sides are porticoed buildings. The natural backdrop of the square is a green hill behind it, on which stands the Upper Castle. The center of the square is marked by the Liston, a raised stone pavement built in the second half of the 15th century on which the chessboard, the protagonist of the grand event, is placed.
Lower Castle Piazza Castello, 1, 36063 Marostica VI, Italy The Lower Castle is the medieval square-plan building overlooking Piazza degli Scacchi and serves as the backdrop for the famous match. It was built in the 14th century by the Scaligeri and originally was a defensive structure, also used as a customs house and occasionally as a residence. In the 15th century, with the transition to the Republic of Venice, the castle was transformed into a praetorian palace; it was during this period that the division into servant and noble floors and the addition of larger windows occurred. Over the centuries, it was used as an Austrian gendarmerie, prison, and municipal offices. In 2006, a long restoration work was completed, bringing the Lower Castle back to its original appearance. It is currently open to individual visitors and groups; guided tours must be booked in advance. During the visit, you can see the Court of Arms, the Loggia, the Noble Floor, the historic pharmacy of Prospero Alpini, the Venetian and Austrian prisons, the Captain’s room, and the walkway. The castle also houses the Museum of Chess Game Costumes and the Chess Armory, giving you the opportunity to see the clothes and weapons used by the extras during the historical reenactment.
Upper Castle Via Cansignorio della Scala, 4, 36063 Marostica VI, Italy Older than the castle overlooking the square is the Upper Castle, perched on top of Monte Pausolino, the hill dominating the city of Marostica. Unfortunately, it is not as well preserved as the Lower Castle but remains a must-see attraction during a visit to Marostica. Only a part of the original building has been restored and is now home to a luxury restaurant. What makes the Upper Castle worthy of a visit is its splendid location: it is the best panoramic point in Marostica, and from here, you can take magnificent photographs of the town and the surrounding hills. Though strenuous, the walk to the Upper Castle is very pleasant. It starts from Piazza degli Scacchi, climbs to the upper part of Marostica’s center, and continues with a steep staircase that crosses an olive grove.
Walls and Gates The city walls of Marostica Castle are almost 2 km long; the walkways follow the entire length of the walls. These crenellated walls are interspersed with 24 towers; three of these open into the gates that once gave access to the city and the gate leading to the entrance of the Upper Castle. The Porta Vicentina is the southern gate, the Porta Bassanese is to the east, the Porta Breganzina to the west, and the Porta Tramontana to the north.
Church of Carmini Piazzetta Carmini, 36063 Marostica VI, Italy Along the walk from the Lower Castle to the Upper Castle is the Church of Carmini, the most famous religious building in Marostica. It is a 17th-century church with an elegant white facade that stands out against the green slopes of the hill on which the castle stands.
Walking Routes The center of Marostica is an ideal starting point for beautiful walks in the greenery surrounding the village. The most famous, and the one recommended for those stopping in the city for a short time, is the route that leads to the Upper Castle. If you prefer a longer walk, follow the path that leads to the small church of Sant’Agata, passing through the solitary and romantic hills of San Benedetto. There are actually two possible routes: a linear one that takes 2 hours round trip and a circular one of about three hours. In both cases, to find the start of the route, exit the Porta Bassanese and follow the external walls until you reach the bridge over the Longhella River.
Bassano del Grappa Marostica is close to Bassano del Grappa, another must-see place in the Vicentino area: the two towns can be combined into one trip. The most famous attraction in Bassano is the renowned Ponte degli Alpini, a picturesque wooden bridge over the Piave River linked to the historical events of the First World War. A stop at the Nardini distillery, a true institution in the area, is worthwhile, and if you have time, it is also worth taking a walk along the river.
The Live Chess Game: History and Practical Info Known as a game, the live chess game of Marostica is actually a love story that really happened in 1454. The players in the match are Rinaldo D’Angarano and Vieri da Vallonara, two warriors in love with the same woman: Lionora, daughter of the Castellan of Marostica, Taddeo Parisio. The two warriors wanted to duel for love, but the castellan decreed that his daughter’s hand would be given to the winner of a noble chess game. To prevent the bloody duel, Taddeo clung to an edict issued by Cangrande della Scala, lord of Verona. There is perhaps some echo of the story of Romeo and Juliet in this choice… The game turned into a grand festival in the castle square organized with great splendor. Rinaldo and Vieri faced off under the eyes of the castellan’s family, nobles from nearby cities, and the people, giving commands to the living pieces from an honorary position, respectfully following the rules of the game. It is a happy-ending story because the winner was the man Lionora was secretly in love with; the other warrior married her younger sister. Both the real story and its historical reenactment end with a burst of lights, fireworks, and songs of joy celebrating the happiness of the maiden and her victorious lover. The first reenactment of this historic game was held in 1923, but it was a single event. The idea of making it a biennial event dates back to the 1950s. The screenplay, scenery, and costumes for the historical reenactment were designed by architect, sculptor, and actor Mirko Vucetich at the proposal of Venetian entrepreneur Angelo Carlo Festa.
When and How the Live Chess Game Takes Place The reenactment of the 15th-century live chess game with protagonists Rinaldo and Vieri is held in Marostica every second weekend of September in even years. The event lasts three days, during which the game is staged four times: the first game is held on Friday evening, then repeated once on Saturday evening and twice on Sunday (afternoon and evening). It is not a tournament but repetitions of the same game. Contrary to what many tourists believe, the chess game staged today does not faithfully reproduce the historical 1454 live chess game. This is for a practical reason: no written records of the moves played at the time exist. The moves of the game are therefore taken from the most beautiful challenges in the history of world chess. The challenges from which to draw inspiration vary each edition; they are proposed by the Marostica chess club, but the final decision is up to the organizing committee. To be approved, the game must meet very precise criteria: one of these is the number of moves needed to conclude the game, which must be between 16 and 20. The commands are still given in Venetian dialect today, which in the 15th century was the official language of the Serenissima Republic of Venice. The complete duration of the show is about two hours.
How to Attend the Live Chess Game of Marostica The live chess game of Marostica is a paid event with numbered seats. On the days of the event, the square is closed, and entry is reserved only for ticket holders, so it is not possible to get a free peek while standing. The stands set up for the game can accommodate about 3600 spectators; despite this large number, it is essential to purchase tickets in advance because they usually sell out. Tickets are put on sale well in advance, even a year or more, so it is advisable to get them as soon as possible. The price of the ticket for the Marostica chess game varies depending on the day and the type of seat and ranges from around twenty euros to more than 80. The most expensive game is on Saturday, the cheapest on Sunday afternoon. Tickets can be purchased online on the official website of the event or at the Pro Marostica association headquarters. As already mentioned, however, it is advisable to book online.
Curiosities: The Chess Game in Numbers The surface of the square is 4783 square meters. The giant chessboard used for the game reproduces a regular chessboard. It has sides 16 meters long and is bordered by a 30 cm wide black trachyte band. Two types of marble are used for the 64 squares of the chessboard: the pink one comes from Conco, and the white one from Asiago. The squares of the chessboard measure 2×2 meters and have a thickness of 20 cm. The number of extras participating in the event varies between 550 and 600.
Where to Sleep in Marostica The village of Marostica is not very large, and the choice of accommodations within the walls is limited. If you want a romantic bed & breakfast or a boutique hotel in the center, a stone’s throw from the famous Piazza degli Scacchi, try to book in advance to avoid the sold-out risk. The choice expands in the surroundings of the center and includes B&Bs in various price ranges, farmhouses, and rural houses; there are also luxury options for those who want to treat themselves to something special. If you don’t find a room to your liking in Marostica, you can stay in Bassano del Grappa: nearby and well connected, it is a larger town and offers a greater choice of accommodation.
