Vicenza

Famous as the city of Palladio, Vicenza is a small jewel to discover. You will find architectural masterpieces, charming corners, and a spritz!

Have you ever considered Vicenza as a destination for a weekend in Veneto? It is a valid alternative to the more famous and visited art cities, Venice and Verona: less crowded, less expensive, smaller, and therefore easier to explore, yet it condenses an incredible artistic heritage into a historic center that is easy to walk around. Some of the most beautiful buildings in Vicenza, such as the Teatro Olimpico and Villa Rotonda, have marked the history of architecture. Both bear the signature of Andrea Palladio, the brilliant artist of the sixteenth century who is responsible for all the most important architectural gems in the center and its immediate surroundings. Although the center of Vicenza can be defined as an open-air museum, do not imagine this city as an old lady resting on the triumphs of the past. On the contrary, it is a dynamic and lively city, always busy but also always ready to enjoy a well-deserved aperitif – naturally based on spritz, the typical Venetian drink – at the end of a working day, like any province of the rich northeast. It is easy to reach, rich in parks and green oases in the historic center, and cycle paths in the surroundings, boasting a dense calendar of cultural and sporting events and many charming little places to spend the evening. You can visit it with a day trip from Verona, Padua, Venice, or Treviso, but if you stay overnight, Vicenza will captivate you with its vitality and the magic of its wonderful illuminated palaces.

What to see in Vicenza

The main attractions of Vicenza are concentrated in the historic center, which is very small and easy to explore on foot. If you have little time available, it is advisable to take a walking itinerary in the center and limit yourself to visiting the main monuments. If you stay longer, you can also include attractions outside the center, which are also reachable on foot, and visit more museums.

Corso Andrea Palladio

All the most famous attractions of Vicenza face or are a short distance from Corso Palladio, the pedestrian street that starts from Piazza del Castello and ends at Piazza Matteotti, crossing the historic center of the city. It is a porticoed street flanked by bars and shops: the typical city lounge where you can stroll, shop, and meet. Along this route, you will encounter some splendid historic buildings, including Palazzo Thiene Bonin Longare, Palazzo Porto Breganze, the Church of San Filippo Neri, Palazzo Trissino-Baston, the Church of San Gaetano Thiene, and Palazzo Leone Montanari (the Vicenza headquarters of the Gallerie d’Italia).

Piazza dei Signori

The nerve center of city life in Vicenza is the lively Piazza dei Signori, a typical example of an Italian square flanked by elegant historic buildings. Inevitably, the monumental Basilica Palladiana, the top attraction of the square, steals the show from everything else, but before turning your gaze to this top attraction, take a look at the other artistic wonders that surround you. You can start with the two white marble columns, which resemble those of Piazza San Marco in Venice: the one with the lion of San Marco is from the fifteenth century, the other, topped by a statue of Christ the Redeemer, is from 1647. They seem tiny compared to the Torre Bissara, which is 82 meters high and located at one corner of the square. Then admire the Palazzo del Capitanato, a building designed by Palladio in 1565 and now the seat of the municipal council, and the Palazzo del Monte di Pietà.

 

Basilica Palladiana

The symbol building of Vicenza is the Basilica Palladiana, an architectural masterpiece located between the central Piazza dei Signori and the smaller Piazza delle Erbe that will leave you speechless. The original core is the Palazzo della Ragione, a Gothic-style building with a ship’s hull roof, built in the mid-fifteenth century; about a century later, Palladio was commissioned to make the palace more elegant, according to the tastes of the time. The ingenious architect equipped the building with a double order of serliana loggias, arched structures with a constant light flanked by two lateral openings, completely changing the image of the building and giving Vicenza an incomparable treasure. This was Andrea Palladio’s first major public commission and one of his most important works. To get an idea of the grandeur of this work, consider that its construction cost the city of Vicenza 60,000 ducats, it took 65 years to repay the cost of the work, and the white stone quarries of Piovene Rocchette were completely emptied to procure the material needed to build the loggias. Currently, the ground floor is occupied by popular shops and bars that continue the medieval tradition of the botteghe sottosalone; the first floor is used as a prestigious exhibition venue. From the upper loggia, you can access a splendid panoramic terrace: look out from the elegant balcony to admire a magnificent view of the city and the nearby hills. In the summer months, the terrace bar is open, a perfect place for a romantic aperitif at sunset.

Curiosity: the basilica that is not a church

The name Basilica Palladiana sounds a bit curious. To begin with, as we have seen from the history of the building, Palladio is only responsible for the exterior; moreover, the work continued for decades, and its author never saw the work completed (the work ended 34 years after Palladio’s death). Additionally, the term “basilica” immediately suggests a religious building, whereas in this case, it is a civil building. The choice of this name refers to its use in Roman times when it indicated the place where political matters and important affairs were conducted.

Teatro Olimpico

The other unmissable architectural masterpiece in the center of Vicenza is the Teatro Olimpico inside the Palazzo del Territorio. This too bears the signature of Palladio, and again the artist did not see his work completed: he completed the project a few months before his death (in 1580), and the theater was completed three years later. It is the first permanent theater of the modern era: between this and the ancient theaters it is inspired by, there are centuries of performances in open spaces or indoor places usually used for other functions. As in the theaters of ancient Greece and Rome, spectators at Palladio’s Teatro Olimpico sit on steps arranged in an elliptical shape. The real marvel, however, is the stone backdrop of the stage that resembles the elaborate facade of a Renaissance palace adorned with statues, columns, and arches: it is a triumph of chiaroscuro, perspective games, and harmonious lines. The inspiration is evidently classical, but the opulence and elegance recall princely palaces of more recent times. For the first performance held inside the theater in 1585, a set designed by Vincenzo Scamozzi was built, using a perspective trick to glimpse the seven streets of Thebes through the five openings of the proscenium. A masterpiece within the masterpiece: it was so acclaimed that it was never removed.

Palazzo Chiericati

The next stop on an ideal Palladian itinerary in the center of Vicenza is Palazzo Chiericati, one of the most sumptuous patrician residences designed by the famous Venetian architect. It is a magnificent Renaissance palace composed of a central body and two symmetrical wings with loggias that highlight the noble floor even more. The facade is richly decorated with statues and columns that refer to classical antiquity. Currently, the palace is the prestigious seat of the Civic Museum of Vicenza. If you are an art lover, a visit to the museum is highly recommended: you can admire one of the most important collections of Venetian art, including works by famous artists such as Veronese, an artist much loved by Palladio, and Tiepolo.

Palladio Museum

At this point, you might be curious to learn more about Andrea Palladio, his innovative scope, and the echoes of his work in contemporary architecture. If so, before leaving the city center to admire one of his most famous villas, take a detour to the Palladio Museum, an original museum designed by scholars from the Palladian Center with the aim of bringing a non-expert audience closer to the specifics of architecture. Andrea Palladio becomes a sort of common thread, or if you prefer, an incipit, to explore themes such as communication, technology, the relationship with the economy and the landscape, and other aspects of architecture of yesterday and today. It is a museum of very modern conception, using multimedia installations and visual and sound effects to involve the visitor and make them part of the discoveries made during the research carried out by the center’s scholars. There are also classic “museum pieces,” such as Palladio’s original drawings, his books, a well-stocked photo library of his buildings, and more. The museum itself is worthy of a prestigious cultural institution: it is housed in Palazzo Barbarano, the only building by Palladio that the artist saw completed.

 

Villa la Rotonda

Let us leave the center of Vicenza for a moment to go see… guess what? A Palladian villa! Villa la Rotonda is probably the most famous Venetian villa in the world and is a sort of summary of the principles of Palladian architecture. Designed by Palladio in 1556 on behalf of the Vicentine nobleman Paolo Almerico, the villa stands on a small hill 2 km from the center, an area between the Bacchiglione and the Berici Hills that at the time must have been open countryside. It is a magnificent temple-villa in a circular shape with a dome, clearly inspired by ancient temples and the Pantheon in Rome: geometric rigor and grace find their most successful union in this building, a symbol of perfection and harmony between architecture and landscape. Palladio’s Villa Rotonda was studied in every detail: for example, the 45° rotation of the plan with the corners oriented towards the cardinal points served to mitigate the exposure of the facades to the sun and winds and to ensure a more pleasant temperature for the villa’s guests. The villa does not have a parking lot, but it can be reached from the center on foot or by bicycle following the Cammino Fogazzaro Roi; alternatively, you can take a bus from the station.

Santuario della Madonna di Monte Berico

Another beautiful walk to one of the most famous attractions around the historic center is the one that leads to the Santuario di Monte Berico, an important Marian pilgrimage site and a splendid monumental complex that combines two churches, one Gothic and the other Baroque. The walk to reach it starts near the Arco delle Scalette, just outside the center. The name already gives you a hint of what awaits you… a flight of stairs; after the stairs, a long portico leads to the sanctuary. The road is long, but at the end, you will find a square with a stone balustrade that represents one of the best panoramic points in Vicenza: you can admire the city and, in the background, the Berici Hills. And if you do not want to exert yourself, you can arrive by car.

Giardini Salvi and Loggia Valmarana

Not to be confused with Villa Valmarana ai Nani, the Loggia Valmarana is a hidden treasure among the cool paths of the Salvi Gardens, a green area at the western end of the center of Vicenza. Immersed in greenery and overlooking a body of water, Loggia Valmarana induces romanticism and contemplation. It is a perfect spot for photographs and marriage proposals, but also for a simple relaxing break! The authorship of the work is not certain: for some, it is by Andrea Palladio; according to others, it is by one of his students.

Jewelry Museum

The museum housed inside the Basilica Palladiana is one of the few in the world entirely dedicated to jewelry, an object present in the history of humanity since ancient times and considered here in all its meanings: art, design, beauty, magic, status symbol, and icon. Spread over two levels, the Jewelry Museum of Vicenza includes an area dedicated to the permanent exhibition and two spaces dedicated to temporary exhibitions.

Where to stay in Vicenza

The choice of vacation accommodations in the center of Vicenza is somewhat limited because the historic area is small, and most of the hotel facilities are concentrated just outside, about 1-2 km away. If you want to stay in the center, a recommended solution for those traveling by public transport or who want to enjoy the city until late in the evening, it is advisable to book as early as possible to have a wider choice of hotels, B&Bs, or apartments. There is a good choice of modern hotels, including 4-star and international chain hotels, near the highway exits. They are designed for business travelers and are therefore particularly suitable for those traveling by car. They are certainly not as charming as hotels housed in historic buildings or charming B&Bs, but they are very comfortable and guarantee high-quality standards. If you do not want to know anything about the city, you can look for a farmhouse or a luxury country house in the province’s countryside: you do not need to go far from the center, just a few kilometers!

How to reach Vicenza

Like all the main cities in Veneto, Vicenza is very easy to reach by both car and public transport. For those arriving by car, the fastest way is the A4, the motorway that crosses northern Italy from west to east. The Vicenza Est toll booth is about 4 km from the historic center. For those arriving by public transport, the most convenient solution is the train. The Vicenza station is located at the gates of the center (about 500 meters on foot from the main streets) and is located along the Milan-Venice railway line, served daily by numerous regional, intercity, and high-speed trains. It is possible to arrive in Vicenza by bus from the main cities of Veneto; there are also long-distance buses to other destinations in northern and central Italy. Within a 70 km radius, there are three airports served by low-cost flights: Verona, Treviso, and Venice. From all three, you can easily reach the nearest station by shuttle bus and then arrive in Vicenza by train.

What to see in the province of Vicenza

If you stay in Vicenza for only one day, you will have plenty to do with the attractions in the center and surroundings. However, if you have the possibility to stay a little longer, do so: there is plenty to see and do in the province of Vicenza. The two most charming cities in the province of Vicenza are Bassano del Grappa and Marostica. The first is a rich and elegant town nestled between the Brenta River and Mount Grappa. The symbol of Bassano is the historic Ponte Vecchio, better known as the Ponte degli Alpini: a beautiful covered wooden bridge now crossed by Bassanese strolling through the center, once by soldiers leaving for the front of the First World War. On one side of the bridge stands a medieval building that houses the historic Grapperia Nardini, a must-visit for any visit to Bassano. Marostica is synonymous with chess: in this town in Vicenza, the most famous live chess game in the world is played every year. The location of this particular historical re-enactment is the elegant Piazza Castello. The province of Vicenza, and precisely the locality of Recoaro Terme, is the ideal place for a relaxing spa weekend. Relaxation is also guaranteed on the Berici Hills or in the mountain resorts of the Asiago Plateau and the Vicentine Dolomites, perfect destinations for skiing, mountain biking, or trekking. Romantic souls cannot miss the castles of Montecchio Maggiore, known as the Castles of Love or the Castles of Romeo and Juliet: these are the two medieval fortresses that inspired the novella by Luigi da Porto, where the characters of the two unfortunate lovers later made famous by Shakespeare appear for the first time. History enthusiasts can follow a themed itinerary in the places of the Great War in search of forts and trenches.